When you set up on a clay target, you already know: 1) where the target is going to come from, 2) where to place the muzzle, 3) where to look for the bird initially, and 4) where you are going to break the clay. For your best chance of smashing that clay, you should know all four of the above. It's a little difficult know all four on any given duck or goose shooting situation, but it is a shooting philosophy worth thinking about.

Let's talk ducks. Is the shot at a bird coming into the decoys -- lowering and then extending its feet to plummet even faster? Or is the duck crossing in front, say from left to right? Or how about an escapee for the second shot, quartering away from left to right?

Since we are talking real ducks and not clay targets, Nos. 1 and 3 above are already defined. You already know 1) where the duck came from and pretty much where it is going, plus 3) you are already looking at the duck, hopefully with an intense stare at its head. So only Nos. 2 and 4 are left: 2) where you are going to place the muzzle and 4) where you are going to kill the duck. Muzzle speed comes into play.

Many excellent shotgun shooters come from behind, pulling the trigger as the muzzle overtakes the target. Such folks are known as swing-through shooters, and I've seldom shot with an experienced swing-through shooter who wasn't an excellent duck shot. That said, I know most shooters tend to be of the sustained or maintained lead persuasion. Of course, experienced shooters are able to kill ducks both ways.

But let's say you are a sustained lead-type shooter like most of us. The idea is to be in front of the bird, more or less, depending upon the duck's speed, angle and distance -- right from the beginning. Again, this is where muzzle speed matters. Let's call it "controlled muzzle speed."

The idea I'm promoting is to match muzzle speed with duck speed. How do we accomplish that? It's not easy, so I suggest you practice the concept on clay targets. To make these suggestions easier to understand, let's use the imaginary face of a clock.

Check the accompanying illustrations. You, the shooter, are at the six o'clock position.

I'll outline several scenarios incorporating this shooting philosophy.

Quartering Shot
The quartering shot has the target flying from seven o'clock to one o'clock. Again, you are shooting from the six o'clock position. This bird does not require much lead, so let me suggest you give the target a 1-inch lead. Of course, I'm talking 1-inch at the muzzle to the bird. The 1-inch lead gives you a helpful reference, so bear with me.

Set up to practice this shot on clay targets. Don't start with a long bird. Start with a bird you break at 20 to 25 yards. With a new concept like this, you have to walk before you can run, so forget 50-yard practice initially. The setup is the quartering bird flying from seven o'clock to one o'clock. Or, if necessary, set up a clay bird flying from five o'clock to eleven o'clock. Set up your muzzle position so when the clay comes out and you start your move, and when the gun mount is completed, the muzzle will be 1-inch in front.

Keep that muzzle 1-inch in front briefly, and then quickly pull the trigger.

What you have done when successfully making this shot is match muzzle speed with bird speed. Use the same approach on a quartering-away duck: get the muzzle 1-inch in front, match muzzle speed with bird speed briefly, and then hit the trigger. Because it is probably a new concept to most of you, it will pay to practice on clay birds.

Deep Quartering Shot
Many of the ducks we shoot at are flying from eight o'clock to two o'clock. Let's call it a "deep quartering shot." You can set up this type of shot on a clay target course as well.

Give the target 2 to 3 inches of lead at 20 to 25 yards. Your muzzle position is critical -- as the clay comes out and you mount the gun, you want to be 2 to 3 inches in front.